Wednesday, October 24, 2018

Duga jakna/Long jacket


Toliko sam se radovala jeseni, da sam početkom oktobra prionula na šivenje. Odložila sam sve zapošete stvari prigodne za leto u jednu kutiju, gde će sačekati sledeću godinu, a izvadila iz zaliha sve one materijale, prigušenijih tonova i tekstura, mahom deblje. 
Iskrojila sam jednu vestu i ovu dugu jaknu o kojoj ću sada pisati.
Završila sam obe stvari na vreme, tj. pre 10 dana, a tada su temperature ponovo počele da prelaze 20 stepeni tako da mi je preostalo da ih odložim po strani dok ne dođe vreme da ih mogu nositi.
I was so looking forward to the fall that I was at the beginning of October set only to sewing. I've put down everything I began of summer things in one box, where that wait to the next year, and I take out all the fabrics, the dampened tones, and textures, thicker.
I cut out a vest and this long jacket I will now write about and ended up doing both things very quick, i.e., 10 days ago were they finished, and then the temperatures started to go back to 20 degrees, so I had to leave them by side until the time came to wear them.

Dugo sam planirala šiti ovu jaknu, a na kraju ove priče možete videti sliku sa Pinterest-a koja mi je poslužila kao inspiracija. Neretko mi se desi da me inspiriše neka slika koju vidim, a već sam par puta pokazala modele koji su tako nastali - neki su potpuno identični slikama koje vidim, a neke promenim onako kako želim, što ovde lepo može da se vidi.
I've been planning to sew this jacket for a long time, and at the end of this story, you can find a picture from Pinterest that inspired me. Sometimes happened to me that I am inspired by some images I see on the internet, and I have already here shown few models that have come out of it - some are entirely identical to the pictures that inspired me, and some are changed the way I want, which can be seen here too.

Materijal nisam dugo tražila, ovaj je namenjen za postavu, a ja sam ga kupila za moj karo kaput i nisam iskoristila baš zbog ideje o ovoj jakni.
Materijal je sa obe strane isti, ovakav kakvog ga vidite na slikama, minimalno je vatiran i prošiven tako da su na njemu formirane manje i veće zvezde.
I haven't been looking for fabric, this is designed for lining, and I bought it so for my plaid coat and because of an idea about this jacket I didn't use it for the coat.
The fabric is on both sides the same, as you see in the pictures, it is minimally filled and quilted so that smaller and larger stars are formed on it.



Od same predstave u mojoj glavi pa sve do ovog izgleda koji vidite na meni, moja ideja je ostala ista. Baš tako kako sam prvi put zamislila ovu dugu jaknu, tako sam je i realizovala. 
Za ovu jaknu sam koristila paspul traku sa kojom su opšivene sve ivice, vidljive, ali i one unutra koje nisu vidljive sa spoljašnosti. Koristila sam papučicu sa pomoćnim delom koji omogućava da se traka direktno šije na materijal. Malo je reći da sam oduševljena, prvi puta sam to koristila i stvarno mnogo olakšava celokupan posao.
Stavila sam džepove,a to je ujedno i bila najveća dvojba oko ove jakne.
Da li našiti džepove ili staviti džepove u šavu!? Ipak sam se odlučila za ove druge jer daju jakni čist i jednostavan izgled, a možda ipak malo elegantniji u odnosu na našivene džepove.
Dugmad su drikeri marke Prym veličine 15mm. Imala sam ih u srebrnoj boji i nisam ih stavila jer sam zamislila ovu bakarnu boju pa je potrajalo par dana dok ih nisam nabavila.
From the picture itself in my head up to this look you see on me, my idea has remained the same. Just as I first imagined this long jacket, so I realized it.
For this jacket, I used a bias tape, which is sewed on on all edges, which are visible, but also those that are inside the garment. I used a foot with an auxiliary piece - binder attachment 87 that allows sewing the bias tape directly to the fabric. It's a little to say I'm thrilled, for the first time I used that and it really makes a job much more comfortable.
I put the pockets, and that was the most significant doubt about this jacket.
Do I make patch pockets or side seam pockets? However, I have decided on these others because they give the jacket a clean and simple look, and perhaps a little more elegant than the first one.
Non-sew press fasteners are from Prym, dimensions 15mm. I had them in silver, and I didn't put them in because I imagined these copper-colored, so it took a couple of days until I got them.


Jakna je urađena tako da je pozadi duža nego napred, ali ne mnogo tako da se ne primeti previše. Sama sam modelovala kroj koji sam koristila za kišnu jaknu pa sam izabrala varijantu koja mi najviše odgovara.
The jacket is made so that the back is longer than the front on the bottom, but not too noticeably. I have modeled the pattern I used for a rain jacket, so I chose a variant that best fits me.


Prilikom modelovanja kroja imala sam ovaj put više problema, a izgledalo je kao da to radim prvi put. Pisala sam već nebrojeno puta do sada da nemam klasičnu građu i da svaki put prilagođavam model svom telu. Dugo već šijem za sebe pa poznajem svoje telo, ali još uvek učim kako najbolje šta uraditi.
When making the cut I had this time more problems, and it looked as if I'm doing it for the first time. I have written countless times so far that I have no classic body shape and that I always adapt the cut to my body. I've been sewing for myself for a long time and knowing my body, but I'm still learning how best to do fitting garments.


U nastavku možete videti slike mene u dve kombinacije sa jaknom.
Below you can see pictures of me in two combinations with a jacket.








Ja sam svojom jaknom zadovoljna, uspela sam da realizujem svoju ideju baš onako kako sam je zamislila, a na slici ispod se nalazi slika jakne koja mi je poslužila kao inspiracija. Kao što sam već napisala, ne mora sve biti identično kao na slici.
I'm pleased with my jacket, I managed to realize my idea precisely as I imagined it, and in the picture below is the image of the jacket that served as an inspiration. As I have already written, it doesn't have to be all the same as in the picture.


Do sedećeg čitanja
Until next reading